Food Safety Lawyer Fred Pritzker to Bourdain: Love Your Show But Medium Rare Hamburger Is Dangerous
I live in Minnesota. That means that for four or five months of the year, my exercise regimen is relegated to the basement of our St. Paul home.
Since using an elliptical trainer or riding an exercise bicycle is mind-numbingly dull, I distract myself with television. One of my favorite work-out programs is Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations” (and his new show, “The Layover”). I like Bourdain because he’s wry, mordant and cynical: the perfect companion for a visit to places I may never see on my own.
I also like the fact that he’s a dick. His persona is that of a self-absorbed and highly opinionated guy – traits you probably don’t want in your father or best friend but quite enjoyable as a travel guide (provided you have separate rooms and a lot of time apart).
Bourdain is also the quintessential (and disdainful) foodie. In a recent episode, “The Layover: New York,” Bourdain samples some of New York’s best burgers, including the $26 offering at Minetta Tavern (a blend of inexpressibly choice cuts of cow capable of exciting the salivary glands of any carnivore, me included).
Bourdain, of course, orders his burger medium rare and eats it with a verbal dollop of sanctimony about the virtues of less-cooked food. On some level, I think “good for him.” If he drinks too much or has no antipathy toward pathogenetic microorganisms, who am I to judge?
And yet…I wonder if Bourdain has ever cared about someone dying from foodborne illness or watched a child undergoing dialysis? I doubt it. The pleasure of food well-eaten pales in comparison to a young life lost to foodborne illness.
We tout the virtue of personal freedom and rebel against the sanctimonies of dictated behaviors. That tension will always exist and the line separating the extremes is, by necessity, ever shifting. But Bourdain is still a dick, albeit an entertaining one, and hamburger, even the priciest, is still a danger at less than 160°.
Tags: E. coli O157



